Krivoklat Castle

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Though on the top of one of a series of generously wooded hills it's all but invisible until you're within hailing distance: that is, close enough to have your eye taken out by an arrow. Once within the village which clusters around the river flowing through the tiny valley it is an eye-catching place, it's dominant Gothic tower disturbingly solid, both reassuring and sending a delightful frisson of intimidation. But once inside the place exudes a peculiar warmth I've experienced in no other Czech castle complex. Of course, it has its quota of historic treasures on show, the gem of the tour being one of the best preserved Gothic chapels in Europe, but for me its the quiet, or sometimes not so quiet bustle on the roughly floored, cozy courtyard, with its little trinket shops, restaurant, and archery school, which gives it its lived-in quality.