Passau to Wachau Valley: Private day trip

Walking Melk today, you can't help but feel like it was some sort of royal bastion. This is largely due to the Abbey, a former palace which dominates the small but perfectly formed town from its rocky bluff. Napoleon strutted his stuff here and the Kaisergang, or Emperor's Gallery, a corridor in the Abbey, is lined with portraits of the Austrian nobility crushed beneath his heel. The highlight of the Abbey however is its baroque church, a controlled chaos of lavishly embellished marble and frescoes, simply drenched in gold. But a close second is the Marmorsaal, or Marble banqueting hall, a magnificent baroque riot of marbled pillars – look out for the gold bewigged caryatids! - and frescoed ceiling by Paul Troger which seems to soar upward vertiginously into infinity. A similarly vertiginous effect is experienced on the tightly circular marble convolutions of the Abbey library stairwell, where you can appreciate why Umberto Eco researched his best-selling novel The Name of the Rose here. While the Abbey cannot – shouldn't – be avoided, the town itself is a delightful place to recover from its profusion of historical and architectural wealth.

Durnstein first sprang to fame back in the tenth century when Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned in Durnstein Castle by Leopold V after tearing up the Austrian flag and refusing to share his spoils of war. His petulance earned him a year in the castle dungeon until a ransom was paid for his release. The castle ruins still remain intact and after a short hike, these romantic remnants offer panoramic views of the natural and cultural sites that line the Wachau Valley. The landscape is marked with natural beauty such as the old vineyards that when coupled with the warm climate, create an unforgettably picturesque scene that lives long in the memory. After strolling the medieval streets and passageways, what better way to refresh yourself than with a glass or two of the excellent local wine at one of the cozy taverns or shaded garden restaurants that populate the landscape.