Tokyo to Nikko National Park: Private day trip

Nikko's UNESCO-listed shrine complex hides a shogun's mausoleum beneath centuries-old cedars and blazing autumn maples. It is also the gateway to Nikko National Park. 

What to see:

• Toshogu Shrine, built in 1617 as the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, whose dynasty ruled Japan for more than 250 years
• The Yomeimon Gate, with over 500 carvings and gold leaf, nicknamed the "gate of the setting sun" because visitors lose track of the hours admiring it
• The original Three Wise Monkeys carving on the sacred stable, source of the worldwide "see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil" motif
• Shinkyo Bridge, the vermilion sacred bridge over the Daiya River, at its most photogenic framed by autumn maples
• Rinnoji Temple's Sanbutsudo hall, home to three towering gilded Buddha statues representing Nikko's sacred mountains

What to eat:

• Yuba, Nikko's signature tofu skin, developed centuries ago for the vegetarian cuisine of mountain monks and served rolled in broth, over rice as yuba-don, or alongside buckwheat soba
• Sake manju, warm steamed buns sold fresh from shops along the shrine approach

What to buy:

• Three Wise Monkeys figurines and hand-stamped omamori charms from the shrine stalls
• Nikko-bori, the town's traditional carved and lacquered woodwork
• Vacuum-packed dried yuba, a local delicacy that travels well

Take note:

• Toshogu, Rinnoji and Futarasan Shrine each charge separate admission, though combination tickets are available
• Peak foliage in Nikko usually falls between late October and mid-November
• The shrine grounds involve gravel paths and steep stone staircases, so comfortable shoes are essential

This is Japan's highest natural lake of its size, where autumn colors arrive weeks before the lowlands. What to see:

• Lake Chuzenji, created roughly 20,000 years ago when an eruption of Mount Nantai dammed the Daiya River valley
• Kegon Falls, a 97-metre cascade counted among Japan's three most beautiful waterfalls, with an elevator descending to a viewing platform at its base
• The Irohazaka switchback roads, 48 hairpin bends named after the 48 characters of the classical iroha alphabet
• Akechidaira Plateau, reached by ropeway, for a panoramic view taking in the lake, the falls and Mount Nantai together
• Chuzenji Temple, founded in 784 by the monk Shodo Shonin and home to a Kannon statue carved from a living tree

What to eat:

• Himemasu, the kokanee salmon introduced to the lake in the Meiji era, served grilled with salt or as sashimi at lakeside restaurants
• Yuba ramen, a highland twist on Nikko's signature tofu skin

What to buy:

• Smoked and dried himemasu, vacuum-packed for travel
• Local sake and mountain-water craft beer
• Handmade wooden crafts and lake-themed prints from shops near the boat pier

Take note:

• Foliage at the lake peaks earlier than in Nikko, usually early to mid-October, thanks to the elevation
• Temperatures here run several degrees cooler than the valley below, so pack an extra layer
• The Kegon Falls elevator charges a separate fee and can queue during peak foliage weekends

The Yudaki Cascades spill 230 feet (70 m) down a lava slope from Lake Yunoko into the Senjogahara plateau.

What to see:

• Yudaki Falls, a cascade that slides down rather than plunges, tumbling down across a slope of ancient lava from Mount Nantai's eruptions
• The viewing deck directly at the base, close enough to feel the spray, reached by a short path from the car park
• Lake Yunoko above the falls, a small, still highland lake that feeds the cascade and reflects the surrounding peaks
• The trail down to Senjogahara Marshland, a protected wetland whose grasses turn copper and gold in autumn

Take note:

• Yudaki Cascades are at a higher elevation, so foliage here peaks earliest in the region, usually late September into early October
• The path from the upper car park to the base takes only a few minutes but is steep and can be slippery when wet
• This is the quietest of Nikko's major falls, and mornings are especially peaceful